Aluminum Rear Panels for Vanquish H10 Optic
$ 10.56
Description
Aluminum Rear Panels for Vanquish H10 Optic. Close in the rear of the body with these laser cut 5052 aluminum panels. These panels are intended to be painted. On my truck, I use Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish on all bare aluminum, and the shine lasts 6+ months here in Houston. Close in the rear of the body with these laser cut 5052 aluminum panels. These panels are intended to be painted. I recommend scuffing them with Scotchbrite or steel wool, and priming with a self-etching primer. If you like the raw aluminum look, polishing and waxing or clearcoating is recommended. On my truck, I use Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish on all bare aluminum, and the shine lasts 6+ months here in Houston. Simple installation requires only a 2mm hex driver. As these are laser cut, there can be a sharp edge on one side of the panel. I suggest burnishing down those edges with a hardened steel hex driver or the shank of a drill. These are the last of the production run, and I won't be making another. Once they're gone, they're gone. If you are interested in producing the design yourself, I am willing to sell either limited production rights, or the entire design, including unlimited commercial and personal rights. Contact me for more information. 1mm 5052 aluminum All hardware included Apparently, I need to make it abundantly clear that the truck in the pictures is not included. Installation Instructions Tools required: 1.5mm and 2mm hex drivers and 10 minutes. Seriously, it took longer to type this than to install the prototypes. I strongly recommend test fitting the panels before doing any painting. 1- Remove both doors and batteries, and set aside. 2- Remove the M3x25 screw in the top rear corner of the cage, and the M3x15 screw near the upper shock mount. If you're installing the full cut model, remove the M3x15 screw in the lower rear corner and set it aside. 3- Put the M3 screws you removed from the cage through the holes in the new panel, then add an o-ring to each screw. If you're installing the full cut model, use the included M3x25 screw in the lower rear corner. If the o-rings are hard to get onto the screws, I use the spacer to put them on. 4- Add 4mm spacers to the rear screws, and wrestle the octopus you've created into its spot, with all three screws in their holes. After dropping the spacers, chase them across the floor, and put them back in place. Tighten screws evenly before the thing gets loose. 5- Attempt to put the doors on. In the highly likely event that the doors don't clear the rear panels, remove the two rear screws and loosen the front screws 2-3 turns. Put one o-ring over each rear screw, and tighten them just until the slack is taken up. 6- Attempt to put the doors on again, and tighten the rear screws until just snug.If the doors are difficult to get on, adjust the rear door panel screws a bit. If you find any sharp edges, burnish them down with a hardened tool, I used a Dynamite hex driver. If you plan to paint, scuff the panels with a Scotchbrite pad or similar, prime with self-etching primer, and paint how you like. If you plan to leave the panels bare or polished, I recommend clearcoating or waxing them. I use Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish, which lasts 3-6 months in Houston's humidity. Anodizing is also an option. If you ordered titanium panels, anodizing is an easy DIY project that requires no people dissolving acid. Several videos explaining the process are available on YouTube.
